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In Karachi, where I grew up, I found freshly made potato chips in bakeries, along with cumin-flavored shortbread, chocolate thumbprints, and sugared puff pastry straws-all packed up in brown paper bags and sold by weight.

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In Pakistan, in the ’90s, I ate only two types of prepackaged potato treats: Slims, which were these thin matchsticks smothered with spices, or Kolson Potato Sticks, an airier, flaky snack flavored with salt and a lot of pepper. This story is part of Junk Food, Redefined, our new collection of snack recommendations, recipes, and perspectives that celebrate an undervalued food group.

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